Today we woke at dawn in a new place. The view from our window was of a silver sea and an ancient volcano floating, apparently serenely, on the horizon. The bay of Naples had been a sprinkling of lights when we arrived late the night before, and Vesuvius a lurking shadow, but this morning it was bathed in Mediterranean sunshine.
A leisurely stroll around the ancient town of Sorrento started our holiday here. We wandered down narrow streets of touristy shops, and passed elegant old villas and churches, some now hotels and art galleries. There was a strange mixture of Armani luxury goods and cheap souvenirs of tea towels and lemon soap. Sorrento has been described as sunny, scruffy and charming, and we found it so, even though clouds rendered the mountains misty by the afternoon.
It was here that Odysseus was said to have been seduced by sirens, and today has been a gentle and sensuous start to our Neopolitan holiday.